The Romans chose the spot for a garrison to protect the Severn as well as spy on Wales, as well as later for a colonia or perhaps home for retired soldiers - the highest status a provincial Roman town could dream of. Commercial prestige came with trade up the River Severn, which become among the busiest trade routes in Europe. The city's political importance hit its peak under the Normans, when William the Conqueror met here frequently with his council of nobles. The Middle Ages saw Gloucester's rise being a religious centre, as well as the construction of what is now the cathedral, but also saw its political along with economic decline: navigating the Severn as far up as Gloucester was so difficult that most trade gradually shifted south to Bristol. In a brave attempt to reverse the city's decline, a canal was opened in 1827 to link Gloucester to Sharpness, on a broader stretch of the Severn further south. Trade picked up for a time, but it was only a short-term stay of execution.
Today, the canal is busy yet again, though this time with pleasure boats. The Victorian dockyards too already went through a facelift and are touted as the city's great new tourist attraction; though Gloucester's most prominent sight is the cathedral, its tower visible for miles around. Few other structures around the city have survived the ravages of history and also the twentieth century, with the centre a mish-mash of medieval ruins swallowed up by ugly new buildings. A web of roads engulfs Gloucester, and if you're driving, the best way forward is to head for the docks (well signposted) along with park there. National Express runs buses from all neighbouring cities and also beyond, and there are frequent local services from Cheltenham. Trains arrive every one or even two hours on the station at Bruton Way, five minutes' walk east of the Cross, from London, Cheltenham, Cardiff, Worcester and Bristol; the bus station is right opposite.
Gloucester lies within the east bank of the Severn, its centre spread around a curve within the river. The Cross, once the entrance to the Roman forum, marks the heart of the city as well as the meeting-point of Northgate, Southgate, Eastgate and Westgate streets, all Roman roads. St Michael's Tower, the remains of an old church, overlooks it. The main shopping area lies east of the Northgate-Southgate axis, with the cathedral and the docks, the focus of interest, to the west of it.
Ljao/jan/1v21