Car Hire in Ancona, Italy
Tourist information-Ancona
Built on two hills that form an amphitheatre around the harbour, it was inhabited in the 4thC BC by Greek colonists from Syracuse.
Later, the Romans exploited its sheltered anchorage and in 115 AD, under the Emperor Trajan, the existing harbour walls were raised; the stately ceremonial marble arch standing forlornly at the end of the docks marks his achievement.
In the Middle Ages, the forces of the German Emperors, the Church and the Venetian Republic each made sure that Ancona was never allowed to establish itself as a powerful maritime republic. In 1532 it slid compliantly into the hands of the Papal States where it remained until the Unification of Italy.
Neither was the 20thC kind to this old city; badly bombed in the 2nd World War, it was again brought to its knees by a major earthquake in 1972.
The oldest part of town straddles Colle Guasco, the hill over the port. On its top, high above the frustration of the modern city stands Ancona's finest church and its most apparent landmark, the Medieval Cathedral of San Ciriaco, an attractive mix of Romanesque and Gothic.
The austere interior is selected with unique Byzantine details, a painted wooden roof in the form of an upturned boat, and a soaring 12-sided cupola - a place to linger in away from the summer heat. In the crypt you'll be able to glimpse the remains of an ancient pagan temple that provided the foundation for the church.
To check out the rest of the best, you can start your walk from the bottom of
Corso Stamira down by the ferry docks. After observing the Venetian-Gothic facade of the ruined church of San Agostino cut across to nearby Piazza della Repubblica where Corso Garibaldi and Corso Mazzini start (the other two Corsi that complete the city's trinity of parallel main streets).
The 19thC Teatro delle Muse that boxes in the square has recently been re-opened after a long and thorough restoration. From here take a quick detour up Corso Mazzini to see the 16thC Fontana del Calamo, a regimented row of 13 masked spouts.
Near the fountain is our favourite port of call, a kiosk that offers oysters and other fresh shellfish to be eaten standing up with a glass of dry white wine or sparkling prosecco - a great restorative.
Back down in Piazza della Repubblica, amble along Via della Loggia to observe the statue-decked Loggia dei Mercanti, an outstanding example of florid Late Venetian-Gothic (the influence of Venice is certainly not very far away here). Further on is the singular 13thC front of Santa Maria della Piazza, rows of blind archways and plenty of fidgety carving. Inside, a glass panel in the pavement lets you to view the remains of the even older church below.
From Via della Loggia walk up to Piazza del Plebiscito ruled over by a resplendent if cracked statue of Pope Clement XII. Over his shoulder is the Neoclassical Church of San Domenico with a stirring Titian Crucifixion above the high altar.
When you climb up from the square on Via Pizzecolli you are in the heart of the oldest part of the city. Palazzo Bosdari at no.17 guards Ancona's Pinacoteca; paintings to look for here are Crivelli's chilly Madonna and Child, Titian's Virgin with Child and Saints, and Lorenzo Lotto's Sacra Conversazione.
Further up you can rest your legs as you admire the bird's eye views of the port from Piazza Stracca. A few paces on is
Palazzo Ferretti, home of the Museo Archeologico delle Marche, an remarkable collection of antique nick-nacks - black and red Attic vases, Etruscan bronzes, Iron Age jewellery. The amazing Bronzi Dorati, a group of gilded bronze figurines dating back to 1st century AD, are usually on part-time exhibit here when they are not at Pergola.
As you wind onwards and upwards through deserted Piazza del Senato and up Via Giovanni XXIII you can catch glimpses of the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre behind. A last effort and you are on the summit of Colle Guasco, with breath-taking views out to sea and the white, wind-blown face of the Cathedral behind you. Now take a sprightly walk back down for a fish lunch or oysters by the fountain.
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